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“Who looks upon a river in a meditative hour, and is not reminded of the flux of all things?” wrote Ralph Waldo Emerson. Though not in a meditative mood, we enjoyed watching the Iloilo River during our recent three-day sojourn in Iloilo City, some 470 kilometres south of Manila. The river runs right along the back of the Hotel del Rio where we stayed. Not too long ago, according to the locals, the river was dirty and stinky. But a dose of political will and the multi-million-peso Iloilo River Development Project have given it a new lease of life. ~Barista Uno

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